How To Sink An Xbox One S Controller
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Y'all'd expect some differences from the Day One Edition Xbox I we tore downwards way back in 2013, and yous'd exist right. Here'south what we know:
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Spec-bumped GPU supporting HDR10 forth with the same AMD "Jaguar" 8-core SoC found in the original Xbox I.
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2 TB of storage (500 GB and 1 TB configurations are coming)
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HDMI two.0a connectivity with support for 4K video at lx Hz
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Internal ability supply
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IR blaster
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Fancy vertical stand up (2 TB model only)
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Redesigned Xbox Wireless Controller
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Etched into the starboard side of the Xbox One S, we find a beautiful reminder that this console still hails from the other tech capital letter of the W Coast: "Howdy from Seattle," home of the Microsoft brigade.
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Moving right forth, nosotros observe the Xbox 1 Southward is now identified as Model 1681.
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In a design decision that takes u.s. dorsum to consoles of onetime, this One features mechanical buttons in lieu of capacitive ones.
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Around back, under the many vent holes we find:
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Power inlet
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HDMI out (left) and in (right)
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2 USB 3.0 ports (in addition to the one on the front)
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IR output, optical audio, and Ethernet ports
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What nigh my Kinect, y'all enquire? You tin apply for a "costless" Kinect USB adapter—provided you lot already own a Kinect, an original Xbox I, and the Xbox I S.
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Our first act of teardown: tamper evident sticker removal. But no screws in sight, merely the back of an immobile plastic clip. Bummer.
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Make that opening tools—because popping that plastic "security" nub takes a piddling extra oomph.
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Do we like security clips? Not in a box. Not with a play a trick on. Not in a firm. Not with a mouse. Nosotros do not like them here nor there; nosotros do non like them anywhere.
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After some intense prying, we successfully remove the bottom cover, revealing a metallic interior instance.
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Some nostalgic green screws labeled F (for first?) free the primary assembly from the upper case.
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This One, more streamlined than its predecessor, doesn't feature any weird, reconsideration components left out in the cold.
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All that's left in the PC/ABS case are some button covers and Sabic and Samsung logos—probably the plastic suppliers.
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Lifting one metal midbody panel reveals a beautiful sight: such nice, sleek components that we are momentarily inclined to keep the cover off forever.
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Somebody call the Jackson 5, 'cause identifying these numbered and labeled components is like shooting fish in a barrel as 01-02-03 (and 04).
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But wait—who'southward that we spy?
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Master Chief has arrived on a new world, this time to protect the optical disc drive subclass. Hopefully the Flood keeps out of this drive for expert.
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Much like the RF lath on the Xbox One, the front end panel board of the Xbox 1 S detaches outward from the lower example.
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With the front panel board's EMI shield removed, nosotros rapidly spy a lone IC and some of its friends:
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MediaTek MT7632TUN (Likely a variation of MT7632 2x2 802.11n + Bluetooth 4.0 Module)
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Skyworks SKY13314-374LF GaAs SPDT Switch
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Sync switch for wireless controllers
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IR Blaster
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Ability Switch
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Eject switch
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Next up on the teardown chopping cake is the Wi-Fi lath. After removing a few Torx screws, it comes quietly just like the forepart panel board before it.
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This is a nice incremental comeback over its location in the previous Xbox One—it makes for i less footstep to open the inner metallic case.
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Wi-Fi is handled by a MediaTek MT7612UN (Likely a variation of MT7612U 2x2 802.11ac Wi-Fi Module)
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At this signal, component removal is a scrap of a hunt, so we extract some screws and see which component is freed first.
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Oddly enough, despite beingness labeled 04, the hard drive is the offset component out.
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We find a
SamsungSeagate Spinpoint M9T ST2000LM003 two TB 5400 RPM with 32 MB Enshroud SATA III 6.0 Gb/s hard bulldoze. Effort saying that ten times fast. -
Sadly, difficult bulldoze replacements however void the warranty, and demand some tricky formatting.
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The One Southward packs a sweet SATA 3 bulldoze, just information technology may still be using the SATA II interface of the original Xbox I. You can ever add an external hard drive though, thanks Microsoft!
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The next to become is number two: the optical drive—too easy! Master Primary is of form along for the ride.
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Here we accept the creative person formally known as a BD-ROM drive, courtesy of Philips and Light-On Digital Solutions. The DG-6M5S model found in the Xbox One S is slightly different from the DG-6M1S found in the Xbox One, with the biggest upgrade beingness support for BD-UHD.
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We also snag a couple rubber bumpers. These probably help keep the high-speed optical bulldoze from rattling us off our rockers.
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At present we come to the One S'south hat trick (a.yard.a. #03)—a smaller, newly-fanless, neatly-integrated ability supply. Gone is that dangling anchor of yore.
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Welcome to the social club, Xbox One.
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This power supply too accepts 100-240 V inputs, meaning yous tin take it pretty much anywhere there'southward a socket. Take that, Xbox One!
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Things are heating upwards in the teardown room, simply we tin can't extract the "Thermal System" just nevertheless. So we lift the whole dang motherboard associates out of the metallic casing.
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The "X" is a flake fussy and takes some musculus, but some practiced prying with a flathead driver saves the day.
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With the component countdown near complete, it's time to extract part number 01: the thermal system.
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Out comes the arrangement's single 120 mm fan—looking much like a PC case fan, just with some sculpting that'due south unique to the Xbox One's design.
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The backup for the One S's biggest fan is an impressive aluminum heat sink and copper heat pipage gear up. Cool.
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Now on to our I true love, chips!
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X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA (Includes 1.75 GHz AMD "Jaguar" viii-cadre CPU + overclocked 914 MHz AMD Radeon Graphics GPU)
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16 ten Samsung SEC 549 K4W4G1646E-BC1A 4 Gb (512 MB) "gDDR3" SDRAM (total of 16 x 512 MB = viii GB)
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X861949-005 T6WD5XBG-0003 Southbridge I/O controller
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Toshiba THGBMFG6C1LBAIL eight GB eMMC NAND wink
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ON Semiconductor NCP4205 (Likely an iteration of the NCP4204 Integrated Power Control IC found in the Xbox One) (probably CPU power phase PWM controller)
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Texas Instruments SN75DP159 vi Gb/s DP++ to HDMI retimer
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STMicroelectronics LDFPT i A LDO regulator
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And on the back of the motherboard...is not much really.
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Realtek RTL8111HM (Probable an iteration of the RTL8111 gigabit ethernet controller)
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Nuvoton ISD8104 2 Due west grade AB audio amplifier (probable)
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Texas Instruments SN74LVC1G08 single 2-input AND gate
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Oh and that handy front-side USB port—which is on the opposite end and contrary side from its friends, poor guy.
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Bonus fries:
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STMicroelectronics LM339A quad voltage comparator
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Texas Instruments TPS51916 retention power controller
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Richtek RT9011-JGPQV 300 mA dual LDO regulator
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Monolithic Power Systems MP8757GL 7 A / eighteen V synchronous step-down converter
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Monolithic Power Systems MP2161GJ 2 A / 6 Five synchronous step-down converter
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ON Semiconductor CAT6243DCADJ 1 A LDO regulator
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Diodes Incorporated (formerly BCD Semiconductor) AP2127K-ADJTRG1 300 mA LDO regulator
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Now on to the controller!
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While we are disappointed by the lack of visible screws, we will gloat a small concession: the batteries are nonetheless user-replaceable! (Looking at yous, DualShock 4).
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Using our recent console expertise, we bust out the trusty opening tools and pop off some white paneling, finding some sneaky Torx security screws. Boo.
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Non only that, just a final Torx security screw is hiding under the bombardment compartment sticker. Double boo.
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Popping off those plastic panels reveals what looks like a neat little assembly, complete with four haptic feedback motors.
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Simply one time we start to extract the animate being, we run across the truth: Unless you're handy with a soldering iron, this is an all-or-nothing disassembly procedure.
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We decided to pick option "all" and but lay everything out, even so connected.
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Dazzler is merely skin-deep, and then too are this controller'due south physical changes. Within, information technology'south largely the aforementioned design as the original Xbox One controller—our guides should be relevant for both models.
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That's a wrap! Time to lay out the parts and calculate a repairability score.
Final Thoughts
- Only a few tools are required to take the whole console autonomously.
- Once inside, a clean, no-nonsense modular design allows the drives, fan, heat sink, PSU, wireless board, and front daughterboard to exist hands replaced.
- Fewer interlocking torso panels and a simpler clip arrangement make opening this generation of Xbox easier than its senior.
- Replacing the hard drive will crave both voiding your warranty and some hard hackery to go far serviceable.
Repairability Score
viii
Repairability 8 out of x
(ten is easiest to repair)
How To Sink An Xbox One S Controller,
Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+One+S+Teardown/65572
Posted by: torrestheivein.blogspot.com
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